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Cape to Cape Track 2009 South North Walk Over Six Days

Aushiker | October 4, 2009 2:09 pm

Cape to Cape Track 2009 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Geotagging Community

Having completed the Cape to Cape Track walking north to south in November 2002, I returned in September 2009 leading a group from the Perth Bushwalkers Club to complete the Track walking from Cape Leeuwin (south) to Cape Naturaliste (north).  Photos of the walk (79 unedited photos can be seen in the Cape to Cape Track 2009 gallery. Clicking on the link above to EveryTrail will bring you to options to download a GPX file of the Track and a Google Earth file of the Track.

Our summary itinerary (and contents summary) is as follows:

Preceding the start to the walk – Perth to Augusta
Day 1: Cape Leeuwin to Deepdene Campsite
Day 2: Deepdene Campsite to Conto Campground
Day 3: Conto Campground to Ellensbrook Campsite
Day 4: Ellensbrook Campsite to Moses Rock Campsite
Day 5: Moses Rock Campsite to Yallingup
Day 6: Yallingup to Cape Naturaliste
Return to Perth

Points to Note
Resources

 

Preceding the start to the walk – Perth to Augusta – Saturday September 26, 2009

Cape to Cape Track 2009 - Campsite at Turner Caravan Park We travelled down to Augusta on the South West Coach Lines non-stop service (bus change only) to Augusta. Not the best experience as the bus’ toilet was full, leaving a foul smell in the bus all the way to Busselton.  Frankly, pretty damn poor of South West Coach Lines to allow this to happen and I will probably not travel with them again if possible in light of this experience.

In Augusta we stayed at the Turner Caravan Park where we paid $12.00 each for a shared  un-powered tent sites amongst trees.  A very good caravan park in my view and one I have no hesitation in recommending.

 

Day 1: Cape Leeuwin to Deepdene Campsite – Sunday September 27, 2009

Cape to Cape Track 2009 - On the School Bus Thanks to the folks at Turner Caravan Park we where transported to the Cape Leeuwin lighthouse for the 8:30 AM start of the walk.  The cost was $5.00 per person.  This turned out to be to early for the lighthouse shop which opens at 9:00 AM.

Cape to Cape Track 2009 -Perth Bushwalkers group photoAfter the obligatory group photo we headed off full of good spirit, with Hamelin Bay our planned destination.

However, once we hit Deepdene Beach, to the north of the Augusta Cliffs, it become clear that this was not going to be an easy 10 km of beach walking. Soft sand and a northerly wind put heed to that idea and once we reached Turner Brook, the decision was made to abort the day’s plans and to camp overnight at Deepdene Campsite.

Deepdene Campsite beach exit point is now easily found as the track exit point from the beach is now gated and signed.

 

Cape to Cape Track 2009 - Deepdene Campsite Day 2: Deepdene Campsite to Conto Campground – 32 km – Monday September 28, 2009

After heavy rain overnight, we packed and headed off with the intention of walking through to Conto Campground, our planned Day 2 camping site.  This day’s walk was now 32 km instead of the original 22 km. After 10 km, we arrived at Hamelin Bay.  Two members of the group felt that 32 km was pushing the limits for them and arranged for the Augusta Taxi to take them through to Conto Campground. Four of us decided to continue the walk, with three of us taking the opportunity to reduce our pack loads for the day, getting tents and other gear taken by taxi to Conto.

The balance of the walk to Conto Campground was quite good.  Boranup Beach was a mix of soft and hard sand, and the balance was track walking via Point Road Campsite on to Conto’s.

 

Day 3: Conto Campground to Ellensbrook Campsite – 36 km – Tuesday September 29, 2009

Cape to Cape Track 2009 This was to turn out to be the big day on the Track. From Conto Campground to Bob’s Hollow and on to Redgate Beach we made good progress, even though the Track is fairly over grown.

Redgate Beach was a hard slog along soft sand as expected. Once we left the beach we climbed the “300” steps at Boodjidup Brook and then went into “robot” mode for the uninspiring section to Prevelly.  At Prevelly we indulged at the General Store even though it was windy and freezing sitting outside.  After a consultation, we decided to not attempt a crossing of the Margaret River at the mouth, instead we backtracked to the Track and continued north via the alternate route (Wallcliffe Road, Caves Road, Kilcarnup Road) which I estimate adds ~ three kilometres to the day, not the one kilometre suggested in the 3rd Edition of the Guidebook.

Note: Both the 3rd Edition of the Guidebook and the Cape to Cape Track map incorrectly show the Track exiting Caves Road to the north of Kilcarnup Road.  The Track actually follows Kilcarnup Road as it exists on the ground.  The alternate route is not signposted either.

Once we rejoined the main Track at Gnoocardup it was pretty straight forward, if not up and down walking to Ellensbrook Campsite.

Upon our arrival at Ellensbrook Campsite we found the water tank empty, but water is available about 500 metres north from the Ellen Brook and at Ellensbrook House (taps).

 

Day 4: Ellensbrook Campsite to Moses Rock Campsite – 20.5 km – Wednesday September 30, 2009

Cape to Cape Track 2009 After another wet night, we headed off, first exploring around Meekadarrabee Falls and Ellensbrook House before moving on to Gracetown.  Gracetown may well be named after the heroine Grace Bussell, but it is “Grace” in name only.  A number of the group members commented on the unwelcome feeling we got coming into Gracetown and at the store where we felt that we where ripped off. This is in contrast to Prevelly where the people at the store where friendly and helpful. It was interesting for me, as nothing has changed in the past seven years since my last visit in 2002.

The Gracetown store is okay for maybe getting a feed (watch what you are charged) and supplementing supplies but not for a complete re-stock.  There is no public water supply at Gracetown so don’t expect a tap or three to refill water bottles.

Cape to Cape Track 2009Coming into and leaving Gracetown via the Track is a hit and miss affair, with the Track being poorly marked at both South Point and North Point.  Is this another sign of the attitude of Gracetown towards walkers? This was probably the worse section for trail markers or rather a lack of them.

To cap off the day, we had some difficulty finding a good crossing point at Wilyabrup Brook due to the flow levels.  A bit of “consultation” took place before boots and clothes came off (some members) for the crossing.

 

Cape to Cape Track 2009 - Moses Rock Campsite Day 5: Moses Rock Campsie to Yallingup – 22 km – Thursday October 1, 2009

Our plan today had been to walk through to Mount Duckworth Campsite, but the day was wet and cold and feet where are hurting, so after Injidup Beach the decision was made to bail at Yallingup for the day.

When we arrived at the Yallingup Beach Holiday Park we confirmed that Dunsborough had a taxi service (meant we would only have 14 kilometres to walk instead of 24 kilometres) and we decided to enjoy the “luxury” of two cabins which where meant to hold four adults and two children each. The emphasis being on meant. The cost was $116.00 per cabin.  As it rained all night it was a good decision.

 

Cape to Cape Track 2009Day 6: Yallingup to Cape Naturaliste – 14 km – Friday, October 2, 2009

Having slept well and feed well in Yallingup, we headed off to Cape Naturaliste, with a planned arrival time of 12:30 PM and a taxi pick-up booked for 1:30 PM.  As it turned out, we travelled well today, enjoying dolphin and whale sightings off the coast, arriving at Cape Naturaliste around noon.  A phone call to Dunsborough  Taxis had us picked up about 30 minutes later. Dunsborough Taxis can be contacted on 08 975 8688 and have a mini-bus for group pick-ups or drop-offs.

 

Return to Perth

We all stayed overnight at the Dunsborough Inn Motel. My room was “queen” backpacker’s room (double bed, shared shower) and cost $30.00 for the night.  Good value in my view.  Leaving Dunsborough one group member caught the South West Coach Lines 7:00 AM bus service getting into Perth around 11:30 AM whereas the remainder of us went on the Transwa service which departed at 10:00 AM arriving in East Perth at 2:30 PM.  In hindsight, getting the South West Coach Lines bus would have been a better option as it left early and did not stop on the way to Perth.

There ends the walk.

 

Points to Note

  • Optus mobile coverage only at Prevelly, Yallingup and Cape Naturaliste. Limited coverage at Augusta and Dunsborough;
  • Winds, with the exception of the first day, where in our favour, i.e., prevailing from the south-west;
  • The Conto Campground to Ellensbrook Campsite GPX file is missing the the first kilometre or so out of Conto Campground;
  • Both the 3rd Edition of the Guidebook and the Cape to Cape Track map incorrectly show the Track exiting Caves Road to the north of Kilcarnup Road.  The Track actually follows Kilcarnup Road as it exists on the ground.  The alternate route is not signposted either;
  • The Gracetown store is okay for maybe getting a  feed and supplementing supplies but not for a complete re-stock;
  • No water available at Gracetown;
  • Dunsborough Taxis can be contacted on 08 975 8688 and have a mini-bus for group pick-ups or drop-offs.

Resources

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Cape to Cape Track Walk Notes

Aushiker | June 15, 2009 11:17 pm

On my North – South end to end of the Cape to Cape Walk Track in November 2002 I walked in from Dunsborough and out to Augusta.  This adds 22.40 kilometres to the walk. Also I treated this walk as a "normal" backpack, carrying all my food requirements for seven days and camping out each night.  There are other ways of walking this track including resupplying en-route and staying in towns most nights.  These track notes are reflective of the walk as I undertook it.  For others comments on the track please click here.

Day 0 Perth to Dunsborough | Day 1 Dunsborough to Mt Duckworth Campsite | Day 2 Mt Duckworth to Moses Rock Campsite | < Ellensbrook to Rock Moses 3>  | Day 4 Ellensbrook to Boodjidup Brook | Day 5 Boodjidup Brook to Boranup Hill Campsite
| Day 6 Boranup Hill to Deepdene Campsite | Day 7 Deepdene to Augusta | Others Track Notes/Comments |

 

DAY 0 PERTH TO DUNSBOROUGH

As this was an end to end walk, I chose to make use of public transport to get to the start of the walk and to return home at the end.  I travelled from Perth to Dunsborough on Transwa train/coach service which is a good service taking approximately 4 hours.  I stayed at the Dunsborough Inn* which describes itself as "superior budget accommodation." I found the Inn to be very clean and reasonable, offering a range of accommodation options from single shared facilities rooms to motel style accommodation.  The Inn is pretty much in the centre of Dunsborough and within 200 metres of the Transwa bus stop.  It is a approximately a 2 km walk from the Inn to the start of the Meelup Trail.  However, for those not wishing to walk to the Cape to Cape trailhead, the Dunsborough Inn can assist with transport to the trail head.

Dunsborough has a reasonable range of facilities as would be expected in a small tourist town including accommodation, shopping (bakery, supermarket, hardware/camping store), phones, drinking water, restaurants and a tourist bureau.  The supermarket does stock a reasonable range of backpacking foods, but it may be difficult to source some fuels such gas canisters. A local street guide is available from the Tourist Bureau.

Also available from the Tourist Bureau is a sketch map of the Meelup Regional Park walk trails and for purchase a Cape Naturaliste Walk Trails brochure. A combination of the Coastal Track, Bunker Bay track and the Lighthouse Walk form the substance of what Jane Scott and Ray Forma call the Meelup Trail in the "The Cape to Cape Track Guidebook Incorporating the Meelup Trail" (hereafter the Guidebook).

* I did receive a small discount on my accommodation costs at Dunsborough Inn.

DAY 1 DUNSBOROUGH TO MT DUCKWORTH CAMPSITE – 25.90 Km

I left Dunsborough at about 6:00 AM with approximately 20 kg on board and made camp at approximately 3:00 PM.  Getting from Dunsborough to the trail head is pretty straightforward.  There is a track till Eagle Bay (Gypsy Street shops).  At the Gypsy Street/Meelup Beach Road intersection, turn left (west), keeping an eye out for a concrete path on your right. This path takes you to the beach where you turn left. From here until you pick-up the Bunker Bay Track at the end of Bunker Bay Road there is no defined track, rather just follow the coast, leaving the Bunker Bay beach at the western car park.

From the Lighthouse shop follow the Lighthouse Walk to pick up the Track.  The track is fairly easy going through to Kabbijgup (Three Bears). On this section you past Sugarloaf Rock.  From Three Bears you drop down on to a nice soft beach for 1.5 km followed by a tough climb out through the sand dunes.  This section was a wake-up call for me, as I had been cruising along at about 4 km per hour up to this point.

Mt Duckworth campsite like all campsites on the Track is not marked, so keep an eye out for a tale-tail sign of the campsite. In this case, a picnic table on the side of the track! The water tank/toilet is further up the hill out of sight.  There are a few tent sites here amongst the trees. This campsite is pretty close to Yallingup (3.25 km) so don’t be surprised if an exercise walker or two drops in!

Facilities/Water Availability

  • Eagle Bay (Gypsy Street shop) – bottled water, phone, takeaway food;
  • Bunker Bay – very fancy toilet;
  • Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse – bottled water, small shop – ice creams etc.
  • Kabbijgup – Three Bears – toilet, NO water.
  • Mount Duckworth campsite – toilet, drinking water tank (small), picnic table, tent sites.

DAY 2  MOUNT DUCKWORTH  TO MOSES ROCK CAMPSITE – 23.50 Km

I left Mt Duckworth campsite at 7:00 AM all fired up. Somewhere along the way, the enthusiasm was lost; I arrived at Moses Rock campsite some nine hours later!  This is a four beaches day plus a serious climb off Quininup Beach straight up a very steep sand dune.  Reflecting back on this section, I found it to be very mixed.  The track between Injidup and Quininup beaches leaves a lot to  be desired – 5 km of uninteresting 4WD track.  Past Quininup Beach the landscape changes for the better.  Just south of Moses Rock Road, there is a magic lookout built by a Greencorps team. Well worth stoping here for a moment to saviour the views.

Point to note: When leaving Quininup beach (heading south) at the Cape to Cape sign, take the right "track" in a south-east direction through the dunes.  Keep an eye out for the track marker posts.

On this section I got into the habit of taking my shoes (I walked this track in New Balance 805 trail runners, not heavy leather boots) off for the beach sections. Walking at the waters edge in bare feet is such a blessing – make sure you give it a go. Your feet will like it too.

Part of the reason this was a long day was stopping in the two towns the track crosses – Yallingup and Smiths Beach. I reckon this cost me at least an hour.

Facilities/Water Availability

  • Yallingup – drinking water from taps/fountains on grassed area in front of beach; phone; toilets and showers; small shop; cafe/restaurant; camp grounds and other accommodation.  Also public transport bus stop approximately 1 km from the town;
  • Smiths Beach – small shop/cafe; phone; I couldn’t find a public water source here so only water source may be bottled water; toilet;
  • Canal Rocks – Just north of the car park on Canal Rocks road and about 100 m below the Track is a spring which should provide water all year round;
  • Injidup beach car park – NO water; toilets;
  • Quininup Brook – water in wetter months;
  • Moses Rock campsite – toilet, drinking water tank (small), picnic table, a few tent sites; NO CDMA phone coverage.

Additional Access Points – km to Mt Duckworth campsite / km to Moses Rock campsite

  • Yallingup – 3.25 / 20.25 km;
  • Smiths Beach – 6.25 / 17.25 km;
  • Canal Rocks road – 8.0 km / 15.50 km;
  • Wyadup Road – 10.0 / 13.50 km;
  • Injidup Beach – 12.50 / 11.0 km;
  • Moses Rock north car park – 20.75 / 2.75 km.

DAY 3 MOSES ROCK TO ELLENSBROOK CAMPSITE – 21.50 KM

Again a slow day as I spent too long in Gracetown plus had trouble finding the track to Left Handers (missing a page from my track notes).  It took me 8.5 hours to make Ellensbrook, but it was nice to head inland on this section to the Ellensbrook campsite – trees! A lot of blow-out to walk through on the way to Left Handers and again south of Left Handers.

It is well worth taking some time to explore around the Ellensbrook homestead and grounds including the cave and waterfall.  Ellensbrook is a very large campsite with a couple of large "fields" to camp in.

Point to note: When you walk into the homestead grounds, swing to the left of the house itself, heading for the car park. The Track picks-up the boardwalk through to the waterfall and caves.

Facilities/Water Availability

  • Willyabrup Brook – water – may be dry in summer;
  • Biljedup Brook – water
  • Willyabrup Cliffs – toilet
  • Veryiuca Brook – water – may be dry in summer;
  • Miamup Brook – water – may be dry in summer
  • Gracetown – accommodation, toilets, showers, shop/post office, restaurant, phone.  I did not see a public source of drinking water. The general store at Gracetown carries very little in the way of supplies. I would suggest not relying on it as a supply source. That said, it did have in stock one litre bottles of Kerosene and Methylated Spirits. No Shellite and the guy when asked, had no idea about carrying it or Cape to Cape walkers!  Its opening hours are Monday to Saturday, 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM and Sundays, 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM.  I have heard from others than the caravan park at Gracetown is very walker friendly;
  • Ellensbrook Homestead – water;
  • Meekadarabee Spring – water;
  • Ellensbrook Campsite – toilet, drinking water tank (small), picnic table, large camping areas; No CDMA phone coverage.

Additional Access Points – km to Moses Rock campsite / km to Ellensbrook campsite

  • Willyabrup Road – 3.0 / 18.50 km;
  • Willyabrup Cliffs – 5.0 / 16.50 km;
  • Cullen Road – 7.0 / 14.50 km;
  • Juniper Road – 9.0 / 12.5 km;
  • North Point – 11.50 / 10.0 km;
  • Gracetown – 12.50 / 9.0 km;
  • Left Handers – 16.0 / 5.50 km;
  • Ellensbrook Homestead – 20.50 / 1.0 km.

DAY 4 ELLENSBROOK TO BOODJIDUP BROOK – 18 KM

A great section of the track from Ellensbrook to Joey’s Nose then along Kilcamup Beach to Cape Mentelle.  The beach is an easy walk with really nice hard sand and lots of rock pools to explore.  Took my time on this section, exploring rock pools and trying to photograph the crabs.  One suggestion for this beach; keep the sandals handy for the limestone rock scrambling. Limestone and feet don’t go well together!

At Cape Mentelle, the track leaves the beach via the 4WD track (often a couple of dinghies here), but the path over the cliff is not clearly marked.  I found the Guidebook useful here, however, at the top of the hill, turn left (Guidebook says turn south – first time south means left, normally means right!) You should pick-up an emergency access road before dropping down to the Margaret River Mouth beach.  Crossing Margaret River was pretty straightforward. Learnt (not quite the hard way) that it is shallower where the river meets the sea, rather than a bit up river!  It seems my crossing interested someone in a plane (well I think so) as they circled around a couple of times to watch!

From Margaret River mouth the track heads inland, but it is a relatively short walk in to Prevelly Park to the shops, accommodation etc. Just follow Rivermouth Road/Surfers Point Road/Wallcliffe Road. I would estimate that this a 1 km each way diversion.

The track from Margaret River till Boodjidup Brook follows fire trails up past the water tank/microwave tower. A bland section helped out with occasional views south and inland.  The descent to Boodjidup Brook is a mere 300 + step "staircase!"

Crossing Boodjidup Brook is made easy by a galvanised bridge built by a Greencorps Team.  A plaque at the Brook describes the bridge thus:

"It was fabricated locally and carried onto the site and constructed by a Greencorps Team. It is 16.5 m long, approximately 1.5 tonnes dead weight and has been galvanised to minimise corrosion" – circa 1999

Seeing the bridge, and knowing these young people carried all this into the area … just an amazing feat!  A big thanks to the Greencorps crew!

I visited Boodjidup Brook in February 2002 and it was pretty much an undisturbed area and I thought that the EXISTING little clearing here would make a good campsite .  In the intervening eight months, it seems others have also discovered this magical spot and decided to "expand" the camping area and to leave their rubbish.  This is very disappointing and quite clearly damaging the area.  There is a small area cleared between the steps and the bridge, suitable for camping – maybe 2 to 3 tents could fit here. If there is not enough room, please don’t flatten more vegetation, rather consider going a further km or so down to the beach and camping there or on to the tea-tree thicket area south of Calgardup Brook.  Let us learn to respect what magic spots we have and this really is a very magic spot; beautiful peppermint trees, a bubbling brook and the odd branch breaking off!

Point to note: There is NO toilet facilities at Boodjidup Brook, so if you plan to camp here, keep in mind you are facing a 300+ step climb to get out of the valley and far enough away from the Brook to minimise your impact. Please DO NOT go to the toilet near the brook. Others may rely on this water source!

Facilities/Water Availability

  • Margaret River mouth car park – Tap water and showers;
  • Prevelly Park – Accommodation, shop, toilets, drinking water, restaurant, phone.  The shop here is better than Gracetown but no walker supplies of substance.  The shop does not open until 8:30 AM;
  • Boodjidup Brook – water (will dry-up in summer); limited camping spots – max. 3 tents, no toilet; no CDMA coverage.

Additional Access Points – km to Ellensbrook campsite / km to Boodjidup Brook

  • Kilcarnup Road – 4.0 / 16.0 km
  • Prevelly Park – 10.0 / 8.0 km
  • Water-tanks above Prevelly Park – 13.50 / 4.50 Km
  • Hollow Caves Road – 17.0 / 1.0 km

DAY 5 BOODJIDUP BROOK TO TRIG HILL (BORANUP HILL) CAMPSITE – 22.25 KM

From Boodjidup Brook the track takes you down to Boodjidup Beach (may also be known as Redgate Beach). I hit the beach around 7:00 AM, which turned out to be a good time as the tide, while coming in, was still out enough to allow walking on fairly firm sand. A bonus on this beach which is pretty soft higher up.

Point to note:  Based on my experience I would in future take the trouble to note tide times and then try to plan walking beach sections when the tide is a reasonable way out.  This seems to make a significant difference to the walking experience.

At the southern end of Boodjidup Beach, the track leaves the beach at the Redgate car park (Grace Bussell Memorial).  This is a  memorial to the rescue of the people on the Georgette, the first ship to regularly ply the coast between Albany and Geraldton by Grace Bussell and a stockman. They rode their horses into the surf to rescue the crew and passengers of the Georgette which had floundered on the rocks.  The Georgette started plying the coast in 1873, a pretty audacious adventure at the time, and was ship wrecked in Calgardup Bay in 1876!  The ship wreck lies just south of the car park and apparently can still be seen 90 metres out to sea on a calm day.

From the Redgate car park the track drops down to Redgate Beach, a very soft, short section of beach.  At the southern end of the beach the track, after crossing Calgardup Brook,  climbs to the cliff top through a tea-tree thicket (good camping spot).

At The Ledges (The Fishing Place) it may appear that you either go down or along the cliff top. You actually go down!  There are two ways down, I suggest taking the southern option; about 50 m further south. From here you climb back up again to Bobs Hollow (a limestone cave and spring).  From Bobs Hollow the track follows the cliff top, providing views to the North and South. At Conto Road, the track turns inland heading from the sea to the forest.

The track borders the western and southern boundaries of Conto’s Campground. If you are staying at Conto’s or wish to get water, rather than turning south at the creamy coloured direction sign marked Conto’s Campground, keep heading east till you reach Davis Drive. Follow Davis Drive to find the four cubicle toilet block. A water tap is on the side of the building.

Point to Note:  After crossing Conto Road, the track heads inland. At a creamy coloured direction sign marked, Conto’s Campgrounds, a walk track is on the right.  This is the Cape to Cape Track!  It may not be marked and in fact you may have to hoof it awhile on the track before you come across a trail marker.

From Conto’s Campground the track continues to Point Road campsite (a better camping option than Conto’s in my view) and then follows various forestry roads to the Boranup Hill.

In my view, Boranup Hill is nothing special and a very disappointing choice of campsite.  It offers very limited camping space which one has to share with the ants.  The lookout is marginally ok, with potential for great sunrise/sundown photography, but that was about it. I was glad to move on from this campsite the next morning. 

Today was the only day I saw a snake.  I came across a snake in the Boranup Forest, crossing Davis Road. It was about 1.5 metres in length and in no hurry! Snapped a photo – but not to keen to get it right or too close, as I was not sure as to what type it was!

Facilities/Water Availability

  • Redgate car park – toilets;
  • Calgardup Brook – water but dries in summer;
  • Bob’s Hollow spring – while there is water at Bobs Hollow, the water flow is very slow and looks like it would be hard to access;
  • Conto’s Campground – toilets; tap water (limited in summer), camping spots;
  • Point Road – camping, no water or toilets;
  • Boranup Hill campsite – three tent sites; no water or toilets (toilets and water tank due to be installed in December 2002 – check with CALM Busselton); CDMA coverage.

Additional Access Points – km to Boodjidup Brook / km to Boranup Hill campsite

  • Redgate Road car park at Redgate Beach – 4.50 / 17.75 km
  • Bobs Hollow Road – 8.0 / 14.25 km
  • Conto Road – 10.50 / 11.75 km
  • Point Road campground – 12.50 / 9.75 km
  • Donovan Road – 17.25 / 5.0 km
  • Hooley Road – 18.0 / 4.25 km
  • Trig Road – 21.50 / 0.75 km

DAY 6 BORANUP HILL TO DEEPDENE CAMPSITE – 20.75 KM

It was good to get moving this morning, Boranup Hill just did nothing for me. I reached Boranup Beach at 7:40 AM, ready for 6.5 kilometres of beach walking; not sure what to expect in terms of the surface. Well again, the beach gods were looking down on me.  I had a great walk of firm sand pretty much all the well, walking off the beach approximately an hour and a half later.

For the historical buff, Hamelin Bay jetty is an interesting place.  From Hamelin Bay the track crosses through the blow out at White Cliff Point before dropping down on to a very soft short beach. The track leaves the beach at a limestone outcrop about 2 m high, where it then heads into the sand dunes. The Guidebook says that where the track leaves the beach may be difficult to find, but once you have found it the track back through the dunes is clear.  Hmmm, I found the departure point fine, but the track back through the dunes was not so clear!  The track is not marked here. Once you hit a sheltered hollow (end of 4WD track), follow the track for 600 metres to a T-junction. At the T turn right. The track is clearly marked from here and climbs up and down the dunes on a 4WD track until you reach a beacon (lighthouse).  Great views to be had from this point.

From the beacon, the track follows the gravel access road to Cosy Corner Road and then more 4WD track until Cosy Corner Bay.  From here to Deepdene campsite is another of those magical sections of the track.  The track is actually along the limestone platforms making up the coast here.  You get to walk amongst solution holes and limestone formations that  are really amazing. The sound of the water in the holes is really weird.

At the southern end of Cosy Corner Bay, it is an easy scramble over the granite rocks of Cape Hamelin before the track again drops down on to Deepdene Beach for the final stretch to Deepdene campsite.

While I found the track off the beach to Deepdene campsite relatively easily, I understand that it can be hard to find.  Heading south, if you reach Turner Brook you know you have gone to far!  On the Leeuwin 1929-III NW map, a 4WD track is shown 500 metres north of Turner Brook (grid reference LH201057). The campsite is 500 metres down this track.  The Guidebook describes finding the campsite thus:

"The side-track to the Deepdene Campsite exits through a large blowout about 0.6 km along the beach. Ignore first two small blowouts…. Follow this side-track for nearly 0.5 km up to the campsite." (p. 84).

I would suggest that Deepdene campsite was the special campsite for me … only 500 metres from the beach … great sunsets to be seen here… last night on the track … first sightings today of Cape Leeuwin lighthouse. Just found it magic here sitting on the beach watching the sunset.

Facilities/Water Availability

  • Hamelin Bay Caravan Park – accommodation, no walker supplies or takeaway food (except during summer season). Water taps, toilets and phones at the jetty. No CDMA coverage.
  • Deepdene campsite – toilet, small water tank, tent sites (4 to 5 I would suggest); picnic table. No CDMA coverage.

Additional Access Points – km to Boranup Hill campsite / km to Deepdene campsite

  • Boranup Beach road – 2.75 / 18.0 km
  • Grace road – 3.75 km / 17.0 km
  • Hamelin Bay Road – 11.75 / 9 km
  • Cosy Corner Road – 17.25 / 3.50 km

DAY 7 DEEPDENE CAMPSITE TO AUGUSTA – 25.50 KM

Last day on the track. Broke camp fairly early, keen to tackle my last beach section, all of 8 km! The Guidebook describes this section as "long [and] difficult" and I could imagine this is the case in winter with the water levels much higher up the beach. Potential here for a LOT of soft sand!  Again I was lucky, hitting the beach with the tide still out a reasonable distance, thus, providing a reasonable walking surface – still fairly soft but nowhere near as bad as it could be! 

The beach section is interrupted by a 1.5 km limestone rock platform that needs to be negotiated. Again the Guidebook suggests that this may be impassable in winter, requiring making one’s way above the platform on an ad-hoc sandy path.

At the end of Deepdene Beach, the track leaves the beach just short of the Augusta Cliffs and you immediately commence a lovely climb up a steep 4WD track for about 1 km only to swing south and start descending to the finishing point at the petrified water-wheel at Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse.

That’s it! Well not quite, one then needs to consider one’s options to get back into Augusta.  Currently, there is no track into town so it is either walk along the road/beach, get picked-up or get a taxi.  Apparently the Augusta taxi service is used to picking up and dropping off Cape to Cape walkers.

In accordance with my walk philosophy, I chose to walk back into town (8 km) arriving in Augusta mid-afternoon.  Walk options are a road bash or road bash combined with beach walking.  The beach is pretty good … mostly firm sand.

I chose to stay at the Baywatch Manor Resort (up-market backpackers).  My single room cost $45.00 for the night.  The backpackers is in town and very close to the Transwa bus terminal.  I highly recommend it.

Augusta is a small tourist/fishing town with a reasonable arrange of services including a supermarket (good range of products), hotel, restaurants, hardware/camping supplies, and accommodation.  For excellent local information, I suggest you bypass the Tourist Bureau and drop in and say hi to Kathy at Leeuwin Souvenirs. Kathy can also be contacted via email at tourist_augusta@hotmail.com

I left Augusta the day after my arrival in town, once again on Transwa bus service. I left Augusta at 8:30 AM arriving in Perth at 2:30 PM.

Facilities/Water Availability

  • Turner Brook – water in the wetter months;
  • Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse – toilets, small shop, souvenirs, cool drinks, ice-creams, CDMA coverage.

Additional Access Points – km to Deepdene campsite / km to Cape Leeuwin Trailhead

  • Skippy Rock Road – 11.50 / 6 km
  • Quarry Bay – 16.90 / 0.6 km
  • Augusta – 25.50 / 8.0 km

OTHERS TRACK NOTES/COMMENTS

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Cape to Cape Walk Track

Aushiker | June 5, 2009 4:48 pm

    Including the Meelup Trail

    135 km + 100 metres elevation

    Last Walked – September, 2009 – See posting here for notes on this walk

    Introduction| Accessing the Track | Maps/Documentation | Track Notes | Other Points to Note | Links to Track Related Resources | Photos

    INTRODUCTION

    C2C110212 The Cape to Cape Track or Cape to Cape Walk Track is 135 km long and is located within the The Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, which is found on the South-west coast of Western Australia (the famous Margaret River wine growing region).  The walk is not developed to the extent of the Bibbulmun track, in that there are no "maps" or five star accommodation, however, there is a very good guidebook and the track is reasonably well marked.

    As at November 2002, Conservation and Land Management with the support of the Friends of the Cape to Cape Track had established four campsites.  Even with the four campsites established there is a stretch between the Ellensbrook Campsite and Deepedene where the walker will need to make their own arrangements for camping.

    Each of the established campsites consists of cleared tent sites (usually around three except for Ellensbrook which has two large camping areas), a pit toilet, a water tank fed off the roof of the toilet and a picnic table. The water supply at each campsite is very limited.  Note that a NO FIRES policy applies along the whole track. A fuel stove will need to be used at all campsites.

    The notes here include details of the "Meelup Trail", a track linking Dunsborough to the Cape to Cape Walk Track trailhead at Cape Naturaliste.

    ACCESSING THE TRACK

    Dunsborough

    The nearest town to the northern trailhead is Dunsborough(approx. 270 km south west of Perth) and the nearest town to the southern trailhead is Augusta (approx. 298 km south west of Perth). Dunsborough is 15.4 km from the northern trailhead, however, the trailhead can be accessed from Dunsborough via the "Meelup Trail," a walking trail from Dunsborough to Cape Naturaliste (see my track notes for more detail on the "Meelup Trail."  At the southern end, the trailhead is 8 km from Augusta.  No dedicated walk trail exists into Augusta, however, one can follow the road, beach or get a taxi.

    Public transport to and from Perth is provided by Transwa. South West Coach Lines also provide services to and from Augusta and Dunsborough. They also service Prevelly Park.

    Other major access points include Yallingup, Smiths Beach, Gracetown, Prevelly Park and Hamelin Bay. In addition their are numerous minor access points, of which some may be 4WD only.  See my track notes for more details.

    Augusta

    MAPS/DOCUMENTATION

    The main documentation on the track is Jane Scott and Ray Forma’s "The Cape to Cape Track Guidebook incorporating the Meelup Trail" (Fully Revised 4th Edition) .  I highly recommend making use of this guidebook (see my Track Notes to see why!).

    The Guidebook is published by Cape to Cape Publishing. The book is available from the Friends of Cape to Cape Walk Track  and various map and outdoor retailers (see below).

    The Guide Book provides basic information on each section of the track. This basic information includes access options, facilities and description of track sections. The basic information is supported by minimal detail 1: 25 000 "page-sized" maps for each section plus photos.  The book also covers the Meelup Trail (13.5 km) which runs from Dunsborough (nearest town to the northern trail head) to Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse (northern trail head).

    The Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC) has published two maps of the Track. Map 1 covers the Track from Cape Naturaliste (northern trailhead) to Prevelly and Map 2 covers the track from Prevelly to Cape Leeuwin (southern trailhead).

    Other track documentation includes a set of five sketch maps covering the track.  These retail for approx, $2.20 each or for a reduced price if all five are purchased as a set.  Scans from these sketch maps, giving a general indication of the track are available via email only at aushiker@yahoo.com.au.  The scans are provided for general information only.  You should purchase your own copies.  The sketch maps are:

  • Cape to Cape Walk Track – Section 1 – Cape Naturaliste to Wyadup – 20 km
  • Cape to Cape Walk Track – Section 2 – Wyadup to Cowaramup Bay – 27 km
  • Cape to Cape Walk Track – Section 3 – Cowaramup Bay to Redgate Beach – 31 km
  • Cape to Cape Walk Track – Section 4 – Redgate Beach to Hamelin Bay – 29 km
  • Cape to Cape Walk Track – Section 5 – Hamelin Bay to Cape Leeuwin – 29 km

    In terms of maps, there are two sets of maps available covering the track area. Neither set of maps has the track marked on it.  They are:

    OTHER POINTS TO NOTE

  • A no fires policy applies in the National Park – fuel stoves are required for all the campsites;
  • There are no shelters are provided at the campsites – a tent or other shelter is need. Hammock users may struggle to find good hanging points at some campsites;
  • Water availability can be limited, particularly during summer and early autumn.

    LINKS TO TRACK RELATED RESOURCES

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    Cape to Cape Track Maps

    Aushiker | November 13, 2008 9:56 pm

    The Cape to Cape Track or Cape to Cape Walk Track is 135 km long and is located within the The Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, which is found on the South-west coast of Western Australia (the famous Margaret River wine growing region).

    At long last, the Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC) has published maps of the track in the form of two maps. Map 1 covers the Track from Cape Naturaliste (northern trailhead) to Prevelly and Map 2 covers the track from Prevelly to Cape Leeuwin (southern trailhead).

    I walked the track in 2002 and there where no actual maps of the track, so it has taken at least six years to get them published. In all honesty a pretty poor effort on behalf of DEC.

    They have a RRP of $11.00 each and can be purchased online from the Department of Environment and Conservation.

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    Bushwalking Resources

    Aushiker | September 14, 2008 6:56 pm

    BOOKS and WEBSITES

    Bibbulmun Track

    Bibbulmun Track – Aushiker pages on same.

    Bibbulmun Track Foundation (Formerly Friends of the Bibbulmun Track) – A good website focused on the track. Provides excellent advice on walking the track (FAQ); accommodation guides amongst other material.

    Brampton, J. & Maher, M. (1998). A guide to the Bibbulmun Track northern half: Kalamunda to Donnelly River Village. Como, WA: Department of Conservation and Land Management. (ISBN 0 7309 6874 X).

    Day Tripping the Bibbulmun Track – A personal website focused on day tripping on the Bibbulmun Track. Includes day walk track reports and photos.< Introduction to the Bibbulmun Track – Author’s brief diary of this end to end.

    John Chapman – Bibbulmun Track – John Chapman is a noted Australian bush walker and author of numerous bush walking books. In these pages, John shares his experience of walking the track and provides advice for other’s planning to walk the track.

    Brampton, J., Maher, M., & Keating, A. (2002). A guide to the Bibbulmun Track southern half: Donnelly River Village to Albany (2nd Ed). Kensington, WA: Department of Conservation and Land Management.

    Cape to Cape Track

    Cape to Cape Track – Aushiker’s pages on same.

    Friends of the Cape to Cape Track. A very good website focused on the track.

    John Chapman – Cape to Cape Track – John Chapman is a noted Australian bush walker and author of numerous bush walking books. In these pages, John shares advice on walking the track.

    Scott, J. & Forma, R. (2008). The Cape to Cape Track guidebook: Incorporating the Meelup Trail. (4th ed). North Fremantle, WA: Cape to Cape Publishing. (ISBN 978-0-9803337-1-8),

    Scott, J. (1999). Walking the capes: Twenty-one walks in and around the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Fremantle, WA: Cape to Cape Publishing. (ISBN 0 646 68414 7).

    Other Pack Carry Walks and Trails

    Chapman, J. & Chapman, M. (1988). Bushwalking in Australia. South Yarra, VIC: Lonely Planet Publications (ISBN 0 86442 007 2).

    • Describes two Western Australian walks – The Stirling Circuit in the Stirling Ranges and Nuyts Wilderness Area in the Walpole-Nornalup National Park.

    Coastal Plains Walk Trail – The Coastal Plains Walk Trail is a 55 km trail located in the northern outer region of the greater Perth metropolis. It starts within the Yanchep National Park and ends in the Melaleuca Park, west of Bullsbrook (northeast of Wanneroo). The trail is fairly well established, with four campsites (Shapcotts, Ridges, Moitch, and Prickly Bark).

    Fitzgerald River National Park – Probably considered the hardest walk in the South-West of Western Australia, the walk described here is a variation of the walk published in Forests on Foot. As described here, it is a seven day walk from Four Miles Beach at the eastern end of the Park to Quaalup Homestead at the western end of the park. The walk follows the coastline (beaches), overgrown 4WD tracks and compass bearings. There is no defined track despite suggestions to the contrary

    Klinge, S. (2000). Classic walks of Australia. Sydney, NSW: New Holland Publishers (Australia) Pty Ltd. (ISBN 1 86436 5498).

    Meney, K. & Brown, P. (1985). Forests on foot; 40 walks in WA. Perth, WA: Campaign to Save Native Forests. (ISBN 0 9589269 0 5).

    Morphet, A. T. (1996). Mountain walks in the Stirling Range – Part 1. Capel, WA: Torridon Publications.

    Morphet, A. T. (1996). Mountain walks in the Stirling Range – Part 2. Capel, WA: Torridon Publications.

    • Part 2 describes the Stirling Ridge Walk.

    Local and Short Walk Trails

    Department for Planning and Infrastructure – Details of the department’s walking program.

    Gough, D (Ed.). (1992). Perth outdoors: A guide to natural recreation areas in and around Perth. Como, WA: Department of Conservation and Land Management.

    Swan Valley and Perth Hills Trails: This website site features over 40 nature walks, bike and bridle trails in the Swan Valley and Perth hills. An excellent resource.

    Swan Valley and Perth Hills Trails Discovery Guide (2005). Belmont, WA: Eastern Metropolitan Regional Council.

    • This is the book which goes with/compliments the Swan Valley and Perth Hills Trails website.

    WalkGPS: Bushwalks in the Perth Region, Western Australiaprovides descriptions for more than 50 one day walks, most of which are less than 100km from the city of Perth in Western Australia. Route maps, waypoints, links to satellite imagery, and over 700 photos are included within 120-plus web pages.

    Related Resources

    Action Outdoors Association is a non commercial, volunteer run, multi-activity club for adults which offers fun, fitness and friendship.

    Aushiker Yahoo! Group: Excellent Western Australian resource on bushwalking here in Western Australia. Discuss bushwalking with other locals.

    Bunbury Bushwalking Club – No further information available.

    Bushwalkers of Western Australia (Inc).

    Department of Enviornment and Conservation Parks and Recreation. CALM also maintains a live bulletin of up-to-date news on Bibbulmun Track conditions, maintenance etc., which can be printed or emailed to yourself or a friend. Just follow the link above and then click on “Track conditions and Other News.”

    Great Walk Networking meets twice most years during the April and October school holidays and hosts a ten day long fully supported bushwalk and travelling community event.

    Holland, J. (1999). A guide to priceless campsites & rest areas in the north of Western Australia. Canning Vale, WA: Priceless Publishing.

    Holland, J. (2001). A guide to priceless campsites & rest areas in the south of Western Australia. (2nd Ed.). Canning Vale, WA: Priceless Publishing.

    • The author/publisher can be emailed at campsite@start.com.au if you are having trouble locating a copy.

    Perth Bushwalkers Club

    West Australian Family Bushwalking Club Inc

    Western Australian Rogaining Association

    Western Walking Club Inc

    MAPS

    There are two main publishers of topographical maps within Western Australia. They are Landgate and the Department of Conservation and Environment (DEC). In addition the Australian mapping agency, National Mapping also publishes some maps of interest. Contact details for these agencies are reproduced below along with the details of the main map shops in Perth.

    Department of Conservation and Environment
    CRAWLEY WA 6009
    Phone: (08) 9442 0300

    DEC produce the Land Management Series of maps (1:50 000).

    Landgate
    1 Midland Square
    Morrison Rd (Corner Great Northern Hwy)
    MIDLAND WA 6056

    Located within walking distance of the Midland train station. See Transperth timetable – Midland Line.

    National Mapping
    Scrivener Building
    Dunlop Court, Fern Hill Park,
    BRUCE ACT 2617

    National Mapping’s main Perth agencies are the Perth Map Centre, The Chart and Map Shop and Landsgate.

    Western Australian Atlas (WALIS)

    From the about page: “WALIS is developing the Western Australian Atlas to be the premier web mapping tool for Western Australia. The WA Atlas is the only reference tool available where users can create their own maps from a wealth of Western Australian information.”

    Map Retailers

    Perth Map Centre
    900 Hay Street
    PERTH WA 6805
    Phone: (08) 9322 5733

    Located in the city. A good source of maps, guide books, atlases etc. One stop shop.

    The Chart and Map Shop
    14 Collie Street
    FREMANTLE WA 6160
    Phone:

    Located within walking distance of the Fremantle train station. See Transperth timetable – Fremantle line.

    PUBLIC TRANSPORT

    South West Coach Lines – Servicing the south West of western Australia

    Transperth operate the bus and train services within the Perth metropolitan area.

    Transwa (Western Australian Government Railways) provide a limited train service and a comprehensive bus service serving the southern half of Western Australia.

    Taxies. A number of companies provide taxi services in WA. For a listing, do a search in the Yellow Pages.

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