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Surly Long Haul Trucker (LHT) Touring Bike Build, Modification and Review

Aushiker | November 7, 2008 10:59 am

Phew! A long title, but this post, reflects the build, modification and review of my first tourer, a Surly Long Haul Trucker (LHT). This blog posting will be updated as I experience life on the road with the Trucker.

My maintenance log for the Long Haul Trucker (LHT) can be found by clicking here

and the photo album for the bike is available here

My original intention had been to build my own Surly Long Haul Trucker but the world financial crisis and time have killed that option. The price of a frame at the time of making the decision to order a new built LHT was Australia $990 whereas I could buy a complete 2009 LHT in Truckaccino for $2,129 Australian. This combined with really not having the time to put into my own build lead me down the path of a complete and modified route instead.

On March 7, 2009 I placed an order with Churchill Cycles, Myaree, Western Australia for my new LHT and took possession of the bike on April 4, 2009. This order got me a standard LHT which I intend to modify and add accessories to suit me. More photos of the Surly LHT can be found in the gallery.

 

Aushiker's Surly Long Haul Trucker

 

Why a Surly Long Haul Trucker?

Before deciding on the LHT I considered a Vivente Randonneur (turned off by the attitude at Balmoral Cycles, Victoria Park plus they where happy to sell me a wrong sized bike). Also the other recommended dealer, Cycle Centre, East Perth, took nearly four months to get back to me! All this plus I just could not get excited about this bike led me to consider two other alternatives: A Fuji Tourer (poor dealer response in WA but could have got one from Melbourne but with freight there was little cost advantage again did nothing to inspire confidence in buying one of these) and a Cannondale Touring 1 or 2 (just too expensive I am afraid, but at least the local Cannondale representative really tried to help).

All this kept leading me back to the idea of a Surly Long Haul Trucker, something about this bike and Surly grabs me so here we are. I did considered purchasing a frame and building the bike up myself but the drop in the exchange rate due to the world financial crisis and just not having the time has killed that option for now. Instead I have purchased a complete bike, however as I am not keen on the idea of bar-end shifters I will be seeing how I go with this set-up with the option to convert this standard bike to STI configuration in the future; either Shimano or Campagnolo. You can read more on the options in the drive train section below.

So here we are … discussing the process of setting up a Surly Long Haul Trucker as road (hard and dirt roads) tourer suitable for touring in Western Australia, Australia, New Zealand and generally first world countries and as commuter, at least a winter commuter. I am not building it as an expedition tourer.

My fundamentals are that I want a good solid tourer set-up for long days in the saddle and loaded climbing, but also something I could use as at least a winter commuter. I want it to have drop bars, brifters, a relatively low range front crank set (something around the 22-32-44 range eventually), 9 speed mountain bike rear cluster and dérailleur, and touring wheels (36 spoke). It will also have front and rear racks,and be set up to pull my BOB Ibex trailer.

Cost:

I am maintaining a Google spreadsheet of the capital cost of this bike. All costs provided are in Australian dollars and include postage where applicable. The spreadsheet can be found here [Excel]. My maintenance log includes an approximate per kilometre running cost over the life of the bike.

 

The Bike – Specification, Modifications and Accessories:

Accessories | Brakes | Controls | Drivetrain | Frame and Fork | Wheels and Tyres

Accessories

Lights: While it is not my intention to ride at night on tourers, Sir Lancelot is being used as a commuter as well as a tourer, so lights are required. I have therefore fitted a pair of Universal Bicycle Swivel Mounts to allow use of my Fenix L2D torches that I currently use and feel that these will suffice for now.

If I continue to use the bike as a winter commuter, it is my intention to fit a hub dynamo and a dynamo powered LED so I have permanent commuter lighting with the need to worry about continuous charging of AA batteries or the like.  My current thinking is along the lines of Bush and Muller IQ Cyo R N Plus as reviewed by EcoVelo and installed by Ken at Palm Beach Bike Tours.

Mudguards: These are silver SKS Chromoplastic P50 mudguards. They appear to have a good reputation and come in a range of sizes. The P50 fit 700c 38 – 45 mm tyres so should be fine for me. Interesting I went with the P50 size and have been pretty happy with them so far, whereas CycleJerk is now reporting issues with the choice of the P45 size (see discussion in the Surly Owner’s Group). Something to consider.

Update – January 15, 2010:  I am a little disappointed with the mudguards as where the stays mount to the guard themselves, I have now lost two lots of mounting hardware and have had to use tie-wire to secure the stays to the guard. Attempts to email SKS with respect to obtaining replacement parts have gone unanswered.

Water bottle cages: I am going to go with two Topeak Modula XL cages . This should give me good water carrying capacity.

Front Rack: Currently no front rack fitted but on March 4, 2010 I ordered a Tubus Lowrider Tara front rack from Bike24.net. Only issue is it is black.

Rear Rack: I have fitted a Tubus Cargo Expedition rear rack which I purchased from Wiggle for $130.46. The rack fitted easily and has performed well.

Kickstand: Whilst I appreciate that the debate about kickstand versus no kickstand is a bit like a discussion about religion, I am going with a kickstand. Having considered the option of the Hebie Bidop stand 605 and the ESGE Bipod kickstand I ordered on March 5, 2010 Hebie Bidop stand 605 and 699 40 mounting plate. Dan’s Ramblings has a comparison of the two models. Ken at Palm Beach Bike Tours also has a good reflection on his use of bike stands.  I went with the Hebie for a couple of reasons: (1) Simply price and ease of ordering from Bike24.net; (2) there is a mounting plate available (the Surly Long Haul Trucker does not have a mount for a stand); and (3) I like the look of the design. Time will tell if it was  the right choice or not.

Brakes

My preference was to go with 2009 Avid Shorty 6 cantilever brakes. These are more expensive for sure, but early indications are that they are significant improvement over the previous model. However the LHT comes standard with Tektro 992 "Oryx" so will run with these and see how they go particularly in the wet. After a winter of riding and still using the stock pads, I think I will stick with the standard brakes but update the pads. If that does not improve braking then I will consider the Avid Shorty option.

The brake levers are Tektro R200A standard levers.

The front cable hanger is a Tektro #1271A with noodle in silver

Controls

Handlebars: The LHT comes standard with drop bars, the brand being PMT with Co-Union Cork Mix tape. I am not familiar with these bars so will go with them for now and may consider replacing them with Nitto Noodle bars if I don’t find them suitable.

Headset: Standard headset is a Ritchey Logic Comp1-1/8" threadless, w/ 40mm spacers in black. No changes planned. Stack height 30.2 mm.

Stem: Standard stem is a forged silver Kalloy1-1/8" threadless with 25.4mm clamping. No changes planned.

Pedals: A useful discussion on same can be found at Bike Forums. I am currently using my pair of Shimano M424 SPD pedals as they are clip-in both sides, offer a wide supportive platform and can be used with bikes shoes if necessary.

Saddle: The standard saddle is a WTB SST with steel rails. I pretty much replaced the standard saddle immediately with a Brooks B17 which had been fitted to Chase, my Giant CRX 1. The WTB SST saddle was just not for me. However the Brooks is sensitive to getting the adjustment correct and whilst I have just got away with the standard seat post, I found Tamia Nelson’s posting on adjusting the seat angle on a Surly LHT helpful.

Seat post: The standard seat post is a silver Kalloy SP-342 (27.2 mm x 300 mm) with a Surly stainless natural silver clamp. If you are fitting a Brooks saddle, the standard seat post may not provide sufficient setback. The Velo Orange VO Grand Cru seat post is a recommend replacement.

Drivetrain

Bottom Bracket: Standard BB is a Shimano UN53. 68×110mm. No changes planned.

Cassette: Standard cassette is a Shimano Deore XT CS-M770 9-speed 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34t. Whilst, no changes are planned, I have found the ratios are not quite tight enough for my commuting so may consider other options once the time comes to replace the cassette.

Chain: The standard chain as fitted is a SRAM PC971 9-Speed.

Crankset: The standard crankset is a silver forged arms with aluminium rings, 110mm BCD, 48-36-26t Andell. My inclination is change this out to a Sugino XD600 (26/36/48), but will see how the Andell goes first.

Dérailleur – Front: Standard front dérailleur is a Shimano Tiagra FD-4403 triple. This will stay as fitted.

Dérailleur – Rear: Standard rear dérailleur is a Shimano Deore XT RD-M761 SGS long cage. This will stay as fitted.

Shifters: Currently the standard Shimano Dura-Ace Bar-end SL-BS77 9 speed shifters are fitted.  However, my preference here is brifters, so I am looking at Campagnolo Xenon Ergopower 10 Speed Gear Shifters which will be married to the standard mountain bike back end and the standard road front end OR Tiagra 9 speed shifters married to the standard dérailleur components.

There has been a really helpful discussion on the Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group in respect to brifter options. I will try and summarise the discussion here. My thanks to Hank Wirtz and Gary form the owner’s group for the substance of this advice.

  1. Campagnolo shifters are the best option. Either 10 speed or 9 speed shifters depending on if a 8 speed cassette or a 9 speed cassette is required;
  2. Suggested Campagnolo shifters include Veloce and Centaur. Hank notes that with the exception of Xenon (any year) and 2007-08 Mirage, Veloce and Centaur (they say "QS" on the left lever), any Campagnolo (Campy) lever will work with any front derailleur that’s appropriate for the crank. The levers suggested require either a "QS" or "FB" front derailleur. For triple cranks, those are Comp Triple, Race Triple, Mirage FB, Veloce FB, Centaur FB, and Chorus FB.
  3. Pre-2007 and now 2009 Ergopower levers aren’t indexed in the front, so you can use any front derailleur that’s appropriate for your crank. Use a Shimano one if you want.
  4. Some combinations known to work are:
    • Campagnolo 11 speed shifters + Shimano rear derailleur + Shimano/SRAM 9 speed cassette;
    • Campagnolo 10 speed shifters + Shimano rear derailleur + 8 speed cassette;
    • Campagnolo 10 speed shifters + Campagnolo rear derailleur + Shimano/SRAM 9 speed cassette – use a Campy triple front derailleur – systems that are all-Campy 10speed shift 9s Shimano cassettes great, just adjust the limit screws to lock out the last click.
    • Campagnolo 10 speed shifters + Shimano rear derailleur + Shimano/SRAM 9-speed cassette + Jtek Shiftmate;
    • Campagnolo 10 speed shifters + Shimano rear derailleur + Shimano/SRAM 9-speed cassette + Hubbub cable routing;
    • Campagnolo 9 speed shifters + Shimano rear derailleur + 8 speed cassette + Hubbub cable routing.

Hank notes that he is using 2009 Veloce shifters (10 speed) with a Centaur Long Cage rear derailleur and Record Carbon front derailleur shifting a 50-34 Veloce UT crank, and a 9 speed 11-34 SRAM PG-970 cassette. Hank goes on to say "that they shift the 9 speed cassette beautifully. The limit screw locks out the last click." My only concern with this configuration is the carbon front derailleur. Maybe not ideal on a tourer.

Gray indicated that he is using Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed QS shifters with a Shimano XT 9 speed complete drive train (except the brifters and a Tiagra front derailleur). Gary uses a Jtek adapter in this combination.

In addition to the above there is a very good resource on the topic called "Rear Shifting" which is published on the CTC website.

Another option is to go with Shimano 9 speed shifters such as Tiagra or if still available, 105. Bikes such as the Bianchi Axis have a mixed of Shimano road and mountain bike components.

Pedals: The Surly does not come fitted with pedals. As a I had a pair of Shimano PD-M424 pedals on hand, I have used these on the Surly.

Frame and Fork

The frame is a Surly Long Haul Trucker frame, described by Surly as "100% Surly 4130 CroMoly steel. Main triangle double butted. TIG-welded. The frame size is 58 cm. Colour: Truckaccino (Pantone Colour Code RAL 1019) .

The fork is the standard Surly Long Haul Trucker fork, a 100% CroMoly, lugged and brazed fork with a 1-1/8" threadless steer tube uncut.

Frame Protection: I have done nothing in terms of frame protection.

The seat post clamp is a Surly stainless steel clamp in natural silver.

Wheels and Tyres

Rims and Hubs:  I am currently running the OEM Alex Adventurer 700C 36h rims with Shimano Deore XT HU-M770-s front hub and a Shimano Deore XT FH-M770-S rear hub and DT Swiss 14g stainless steel spokes.

The Alex Adventurer rims are a double wall design with the following specifications: ERD 603.1 mm ETRTO 622×18 mm, with an inner rim width of 17.5 mm and an outer rim width of 24.5 mm.

Tyres: The OEM tyres where Continental Travel Contacts 700Cx37 which I removed at 4,722 km.  As my day to day use of the bike is commuting, I have now fitted Continental Grand Prix 4-Season V 700Cx28. For touring duties I have ordered (March 4, 2010) a set of Schwalbe Marathon Cross HS 334 700Cx38 as I have a nine day tour coming in April 2010 which will involve a mix of bitumen and dirt roads.

Resources:

Links to discussion forums, owner reviews on the LHT and other related and helpful resources.

Surly Related Discussion Forums

Surly Long Haul Trucker & Cross-Check Owners Group – Surly owners discussion group.
 
 
Surly Owners and Surly Related Websites

The Ultimate Trek.com Blog – Review on Daniel’s own Long Haul Trucker plus other gear being used on Daniel’s adventure.

Jon’s Cycling Log – Jon has a costing comparison of a Surly Long Haul Trucker versus a Dawes Ultra Galaxy.

Jim’s Riding 4 Life blog – Jim is a LHT owner

Marcos Netto Long Haul Trucker set-up with STI shifters and Deore deraiullers. Nice photos and specification information.

Palm Beach Tours – Ken is a Surly Long Haul Trucker owner and great story teller. Ken’s 2009 year in review in respect to his LHT can be found here.

The Surly Randonneur -  Surly commuter and Audax rider.

 

Other interesting discussions of interest

Touring Handlebars – Discussion in Crazyguyonabike forums.


 

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Fenix Digital L2D Black Premium Q5 Torch Owner Review

Aushiker | June 4, 2008 11:41 pm

Fenix L2D Mounted to a Surly Long Haul TruckerThis posting is a review of two Fenix L2D Black Premium Q5 torches and of three TwoFish Lockblocks mounts. The torches and mounts where purchased as bike light set-up. My initial impressions are that the L2Ds are well made, the finish of the product is good, their functionality is reasonable and the level of light output appears good for my purposes.

Purchase

I purchased in May 2008 two Fenix Digital L2D Black Premium Q5 torches from FenixStore.com along with a pack of three TwoFish Lockblocks to mount the torches to my bikes. Total cost of the order was ~AU$135.00 delivered. I found FenixStore’s ordering process straight forward and I liked that they provided a tracking number even though I never used it. The torches arrived within a week of ordering and were well packaged. There was no invoice or other purchase documentation other than a warranty card.

Manufacturers’ L2D Details

  • Premium (Q5) Cree 7090 XR-E LED with a rated life of 50,000 hours;
  • Range in brightness from 12 lumens to 180 lumens;
  • Digitally regulated for constant brightness;
  • Waterproof to IPX-8 Standards;
  • Used two 1.5V AA batteries.

Output Specifications (Manufacturer)

  • General mode: 12 lumens (55 hours ) -> 53 lumens (10.5 hours) -> 107 lumens (4 hours) -> SOS
  • Turbo mode: 180 lumens (2.4 hours) -> Strobe

Mode is selected by turning the bezel and within a mode, the output is changed by a soft-press of the button at the end of the torch.

First Impressions

The L2D is a light weight torch (~ 55 g without batteries) and appears to be well made. The battery screw cap fits well and appears to have a good seal. Overall I am impressed with the workmanship and finish of the lights and have no concerns.

Functioning and Mounting

Update – April 19, 2009 – Installation of a pair of Universal Bicycle Swivel Mount for Flashlights and Lasers (1.7~3.0cm Flexible Diameter)

With DealExtreme now stocking these universal bicycle mounts I decided to take the plunge and purchase four of them. Two are installed on the Surly Long Haul Trucker and two on my Look 555.  Whilst my first impressions of the mounts are positive I have found that the Fenix L2D torch bodies narrow diameter body not ideal for these mounts, hence I have had to pad out the body at the mounting point.  I did this by wrapping 15 cm of mountain bike inner tube around the torch body.  This makes the diameter of the body at the mount point approximately 28 mm. Close enough for me, but 30 mm would be ideal I suspect.  That gets the torches fitted okay.

The mounts themselves fit nicely to the Look 555’s oversized bars.  However, the smaller diameter handlebars on the Surly LHT required a little attention.  Where the bar is wrapped the mount fits snugly, however, if one fits the mount to the unwrapped portion of the bar, the fit is not as snug.  I have overcome this by wrapping one layer of mountain bike inner tube around the bar.

Finally the mounting method allows for the easy tilting of the lights up or down. In addition the mounts are designed to swivel 360 degrees on the horizontal.

So first impressions are good, the mounts appear to be a good fit with the modifications. Further photos of the mounts can be found in the Surly Long Haul Trucker album.

Initial Mounting Set-up -TwoFish Lockblocks followed by Wrist Straps

I initially mounted the two torches on the bar of my bike using two TwoFish Lockblocks.

In respect to the mounts, the TwoFish Lockblocks are a pretty straight forward mounting system, utilising a rubber block with one end going over the bar and the other holding the torch. The mount is held to the bar with a Velcro or similar similar strap and the same goes for the torch. My initial impression was that these straps hold the mount and the torch securely.  However, experience over winter show this not to be the case and I have now dumped the TwoFish Lockblocks.  They are just hopeless in the wet.  The hook and loop fasteners loose their tension when they get wet which can result in a torch hitting the road.

For the remainder of winter replaced the TwoFish Lockblocks with a simple rubber wrist band (e.g., the LiveStrong ones). I picked up a packet of these for a $1.00.  Using a couple of them gives me a good firm mount and built in redundancy. Sure beats the TwoFish Lockblocks.

Operation

Last winter I  had one L2D set to turbo mode as I planned to use it as a strobe or flashing light. As the torch is in turbo mode, all I need to do is push on the switch at the battery end of the torch and then press it a second time with a soft touch to bring it into flashing mode. My initial impressions are that this is a bright strobe, but then it should be as the L2D is operating at a claimed 180 lumens.

The other L2D was used in non-flashing mode. I will either run it at 107 lumens or in turbo mode at 180 lumens. This really will depend on the ambient temperature as Fenix Lights warn against running in turbo mode for more than 10 minutes. That said, given this is mounted on a bike, I really don’t see this being an issue. I suspect from a functionality point of view, turbo mode will be better as when the L2D is turned on in general mode, it starts up at 12 lumens. A repeated soft touch is required to get the output to 107 lumens. This needs to be repeated each time the torch is turned on and if I am not careful I can go over into SOS mode, requiring a cycle repeat to get to 107 lumens. The other possible issue is the washing out of the light when the other torch is in strobe mode at 180 lumens. Further use will determine the best options I am sure.

Usage Update

April 19, 2009: I have used the L2Ds a bit over the summer with some early morning starts. My usage has now changed to running on one L2D at a time. This has proved to work fine for me and also has the other advantaged of giving me approximately three hours running time. I plan to continue this operation mode into this winter to see how it works out.

November 20, 2008: Now that daylight saving has kicked in I have pretty much finished with the Fenix L2D’s for the year.  They have proved to good commuting lights over the winter, coping with the rain and rough paths without any dramas.  My only grips with them are the battery life (~ 1.5 hours on turbo) and the problems I had with the TwoFish Lockblocks mounts which I solved with a move to using wrist bands (see discussion above).

Based on my experience with the L2D and observation of other rider’s set-ups I changed my use of the torches during winter to running them both on continuous turbo.  I found running one on turbo and one on strobe was pointless as the turbo torch effectively washed out the flashing one.  I only now operate in flashing mode in low light conditions or when I am fast running out of battery.

July 13, 2008: I have had a chance to use the L2D now on a few wet rides (read in downpours) and I am happy with the lights performance with no evidence of water getting in and causing problems. However the TwoFish Lockblocks are a different story. The hook and loop strapping material used does not like the water at all. As soon as it gets wet it looses tension with the torches then slipping around, down etc. It is possible to re-tension the application of the fastener and this seems to solve the problem until the next rain. Not an ideal situation in my view and I am looking at swapping them out for other mounts.

June 29 – 30, 2008: I completed a battery life test this morning. The batteries used where Varta 2500 mAh rechargeables. The batteries where charged on Friday, June 27, 2008 and then used on a 50 minute night ride on Sunday June 29, 2008 and again on morning ride on June 30, 2008. They where used in turbo mode (180 lumens). Based on my obeservations I estimated I got full light beam for approximately 1.5 hours. At that point I started to notice a drop off in light out put with about another 10 minutes of useful output before the L2D whilst still working where really not providing any usable output. In summary I estimate that I can get around 100 minutes of useful light out of the rechargable batteries at 180 lumens.

June 9, 2008: I have had a chance to use the L2D on three commutes now, all around 20 km (about 2.5 hours of night riding), and overall I am quite impressed with their performance. Whilst I have the two torches currently mounted on my Giant CRX 1 I found I have only used one L2D and that one mainly in flashing mode, only flicking over to a steady light on a couple of very dark sections of shared path.

My regular Fremantle commute is a mix of reasonably well lit local and commuter roads and shared path with variable quality lightening. With my old set up (Sigma Sport Mirage EVO + EVO X Pro halogen lights and Blackburn Quadrant LED) I would be running the LED in flash mode and both Mirage lights to get some sort of see and been seen lighting. With the L2D I am finding that I achieve the same outcome and more with one torch in flashing mode. In fact on a couple of sections of road, I measured the effect of the flash mode, determining it can light up signs up to 300 metres a head of me (measured with a Garmin Edge 305). Really quite impressive. Also the flash frequency is such that I find I can see pretty well by it, again reducing the need for a non-flashing light (ignoring WA legal requirements here for a non-broken front light beam but!).

In respect to battery life, the flashing torch is still running on the first set of rechargeable batteries without a recharge.

Overall I am quite impressed with the performance of the L2D after a winter of use.

Discussion of other lightening options can be found in my Bike Lights Review posting.

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Bike Lights Review

Aushiker | May 6, 2008 1:11 pm

CHOICE magazine has a review of bike lights out. The review was conducted in-conjunction with Bicycle Victoria’s Ride On magazine.

A panel of 10 judges from the cycling community — including police, government, retailers, community groups and CHOICE — assessed the lights at night at a distance of 200m and also at 50m, with the lights angled at 45° (to simulate the bike approaching an intersection). The flash rate (where applicable) was also assessed.

Our test was conducted on a suburban road with a popular cycle path, and during the test several cyclists passed by with very weak bike lights (or none at all). You should check your bike lights periodically. If they’re looking a bit dim, change the batteries. Our test showed that all the lights were visible at both distances, but some clearly outshone the rest.

Further details of the test and the recommendations can be found at the CHOICE website. Some questions have now been raised about the validity of this survey, its limited nature and making good choices on lights.

I suggest that interested readers click through to the various discussions in the Bicycles Network Australia and other forums.

My choice of bike lights are Fenix L2D CE torches (updated November 20, 2008).  The link takes you to my owner review of same.  There is also now even better LEDs out.  Apparently the R2 module is better than the Q5.

Update June 3, 2008: A good discussion has started up in Bicycles Network Australia forums on another front light option, the Australian lights, Ay-Up, which I had planned to purchase before going with the Fenix torches. A second thread on the Ay-Ups can be found here.

May 28, 2008:I now have a copy of the full article which you can download in two parts.  Part 1 is available here and Part 2 is available here.

Personally in respect to the front lights I would not go with any of the suggestions given here and feel one can do with better with either UltraFire or Fenix torches. Observing riders on the road and bike paths (I ride a lot at night) I wouldn’t consider any of the front light options in this review as being suitable. Lights should make one be seen and to be there to see. Poor lights do neither well.

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