Cape to Cape Track 2009 South North Walk Over Six Days

Cape to Cape Track 2009 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail: Geotagging Community

Having completed the Cape to Cape Track walking north to south in November 2002, I returned in September 2009 leading a group from the Perth Bushwalkers Club to complete the Track walking from Cape Leeuwin (south) to Cape Naturaliste (north). Photos of the walk (79 unedited photos can be seen in the Cape to Cape Track 2009 gallery. Clicking on the link above to EveryTrail will bring you to options to download a GPX file of the Track and a Google Earth file of the Track.

Our summary itinerary (and contents summary) is as follows:

Preceding the start to the walk – Perth to Augusta
Day 1: Cape Leeuwin to Deepdene Campsite
Day 2: Deepdene Campsite to Conto Campground
Day 3: Conto Campground to Ellensbrook Campsite
Day 4: Ellensbrook Campsite to Moses Rock Campsite
Day 5: Moses Rock Campsite to Yallingup
Day 6: Yallingup to Cape Naturaliste
Return to Perth

Points to Note
Resources

Preceding the start to the walk – Perth to Augusta – Saturday September 26, 2009

We travelled down to Augusta on the South West Coach Lines non-stop service (bus change only) to Augusta. Not the best experience as the bus’ toilet was full, leaving a foul smell in the bus all the way to Busselton. Frankly, pretty damn poor of South West Coach Lines to allow this to happen and I will probably not travel with them again if possible in light of this experience.

In Augusta we stayed at the Turner Caravan Park where we paid $12.00 each for a shared un-powered tent sites amongst trees. A very good caravan park in my view and one I have no hesitation in recommending.

Day 1: Cape Leeuwin to Deepdene Campsite – Sunday September 27, 2009

Thanks to the folks at Turner Caravan Park we where transported to the Cape Leeuwin lighthouse for the 8:30 AM start of the walk. The cost was $5.00 per person. This turned out to be to early for the lighthouse shop which opens at 9:00 AM.

After the obligatory group photo we headed off full of good spirit, with Hamelin Bay our planned destination.

However, once we hit Deepdene Beach, to the north of the Augusta Cliffs, it become clear that this was not going to be an easy 10 km of beach walking. Soft sand and a northerly wind put heed to that idea and once we reached Turner Brook, the decision was made to abort the day’s plans and to camp overnight at Deepdene Campsite.

Deepdene Campsite beach exit point is now easily found as the track exit point from the beach is now gated and signed.

Day 2: Deepdene Campsite to Conto Campground – 32 km – Monday September 28, 2009

After heavy rain overnight, we packed and headed off with the intention of walking through to Conto Campground, our planned Day 2 camping site. This day’s walk was now 32 km instead of the original 22 km. After 10 km, we arrived at Hamelin Bay. Two members of the group felt that 32 km was pushing the limits for them and arranged for the Augusta Taxi to take them through to Conto Campground. Four of us decided to continue the walk, with three of us taking the opportunity to reduce our pack loads for the day, getting tents and other gear taken by taxi to Conto.

The balance of the walk to Conto Campground was quite good. Boranup Beach was a mix of soft and hard sand, and the balance was track walking via Point Road Campsite on to Conto’s.

Day 3: Conto Campground to Ellensbrook Campsite – 36 km – Tuesday September 29, 2009

This was to turn out to be the big day on the Track. From Conto Campground to Bob’s Hollow and on to Redgate Beach we made good progress, even though the Track is fairly over grown.

Redgate Beach was a hard slog along soft sand as expected. Once we left the beach we climbed the “300” steps at Boodjidup Brook and then went into “robot” mode for the uninspiring section to Prevelly. At Prevelly we indulged at the General Store even though it was windy and freezing sitting outside. After a consultation, we decided to not attempt a crossing of the Margaret River at the mouth, instead we backtracked to the Track and continued north via the alternate route (Wallcliffe Road, Caves Road, Kilcarnup Road) which I estimate adds ~ three kilometres to the day, not the one kilometre suggested in the 3rd Edition of the Guidebook.

Note: Both the 3rd Edition of the Guidebook and the Cape to Cape Track map incorrectly show the Track exiting Caves Road to the north of Kilcarnup Road. The Track actually follows Kilcarnup Road as it exists on the ground. The alternate route is not signposted either.

Once we rejoined the main Track at Gnoocardup it was pretty straight forward, if not up and down walking to Ellensbrook Campsite.

Upon our arrival at Ellensbrook Campsite we found the water tank empty, but water is available about 500 metres north from the Ellen Brook and at Ellensbrook House (taps).

Day 4: Ellensbrook Campsite to Moses Rock Campsite – 20.5 km – Wednesday September 30, 2009

After another wet night, we headed off, first exploring around Meekadarrabee Falls and Ellensbrook House before moving on to Gracetown. Gracetown may well be named after the heroine Grace Bussell, but it is “Grace” in name only. A number of the group members commented on the unwelcome feeling we got coming into Gracetown and at the store where we felt that we where ripped off. This is in contrast to Prevelly where the people at the store where friendly and helpful. It was interesting for me, as nothing has changed in the past seven years since my last visit in 2002.

The Gracetown store is okay for maybe getting a feed (watch what you are charged) and supplementing supplies but not for a complete re-stock. There is no public water supply at Gracetown so don’t expect a tap or three to refill water bottles.

Coming into and leaving Gracetown via the Track is a hit and miss affair, with the Track being poorly marked at both South Point and North Point. Is this another sign of the attitude of Gracetown towards walkers? This was probably the worse section for trail markers or rather a lack of them.

To cap off the day, we had some difficulty finding a good crossing point at Wilyabrup Brook due to the flow levels. A bit of “consultation” took place before boots and clothes came off (some members) for the crossing.

Day 5: Moses Rock Campsie to Yallingup – 22 km – Thursday October 1, 2009

Our plan today had been to walk through to Mount Duckworth Campsite, but the day was wet and cold and feet where are hurting, so after Injidup Beach the decision was made to bail at Yallingup for the day.

When we arrived at the Yallingup Beach Holiday Park we confirmed that Dunsborough had a taxi service (meant we would only have 14 kilometres to walk instead of 24 kilometres) and we decided to enjoy the “luxury” of two cabins which where meant to hold four adults and two children each. The emphasis being on meant. The cost was $116.00 per cabin. As it rained all night it was a good decision.

Day 6: Yallingup to Cape Naturaliste – 14 km – Friday, October 2, 2009

Having slept well and feed well in Yallingup, we headed off to Cape Naturaliste, with a planned arrival time of 12:30 PM and a taxi pick-up booked for 1:30 PM. As it turned out, we travelled well today, enjoying dolphin and whale sightings off the coast, arriving at Cape Naturaliste around noon. A phone call to Dunsborough Taxis had us picked up about 30 minutes later. Dunsborough Taxis can be contacted on 08 975 8688 and have a mini-bus for group pick-ups or drop-offs.

Return to Perth

We all stayed overnight at the Dunsborough Inn Motel. My room was “queen” backpacker’s room (double bed, shared shower) and cost $30.00 for the night. Good value in my view. Leaving Dunsborough one group member caught the South West Coach Lines 7:00 AM bus service getting into Perth around 11:30 AM whereas the remainder of us went on the Transwa service which departed at 10:00 AM arriving in East Perth at 2:30 PM. In hindsight, getting the South West Coach Lines bus would have been a better option as it left early and did not stop on the way to Perth.

There ends the walk.

Points to Note

Optus mobile coverage only at Prevelly, Yallingup and Cape Naturaliste. Limited coverage at Augusta and Dunsborough;
Winds, with the exception of the first day, where in our favour, i.e., prevailing from the south-west;
The Conto Campground to Ellensbrook Campsite GPX file is missing the the first kilometre or so out of Conto Campground;
Both the 3rd Edition of the Guidebook and the Cape to Cape Track map incorrectly show the Track exiting Caves Road to the north of Kilcarnup Road. The Track actually follows Kilcarnup Road as it exists on the ground. The alternate route is not signposted either;
The Gracetown store is okay for maybe getting a feed and supplementing supplies but not for a complete re-stock;
No water available at Gracetown;
Dunsborough Taxis can be contacted on 08 975 8688 and have a mini-bus for group pick-ups or drop-offs.

Resources